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The Octagon Sacramento Country Day School Sacramento, CA
Issue Date: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 Issue: Vol. XXXV, No. 8 Last Update: Thursday, May 31, 2012
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At-a-glance

Pizza place not worth a drive
The entryway of Matteo's - Photo by Nicole Antoine
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There’s a new addition to the popular “Five Points” shopping center at the intersection of Fair Oaks Blvd. and Arden Way. But don’t get too excited.

If you don’t live in Carmichael, Matteo’s is not worth the hike.

Matt Woolston, owner of the restaurant Sacramento Supper Club, opened Matteo’s Pizza and Bistro (5132 Arden Way) at the beginning of November, replacing Steve’s Place Pizza.

Matteo’s menu does a little bit of everything at a reasonable price, but most of the dishes are only okay.

The pizzas were the most disappointing.

The pepperoni pizza ($11) is fine, but that’s no big deal, considering it is almost impossible to mess up such a simple recipe. The pizza’s herby flavor took away from the taste of the warm cheese.

Next time, I’d opt for a plain cheese pizza. Hold the herb garden, please.

The New Yorker pizza ($12.50) was a little better. Matteo’s got almost everything right on this pizza—except for the cheese. The consistency of the ricotta and mozzarella cheese was extremely rubbery. But the garlic cream sauce was great, and the caramelized onions were a good try, although a little too sweet.

The pasta menu is unimpressive, containing only four choices: Ziti, Fettuccini Alfredo, Bucatini Bolognese (a thick spaghetti-like pasta with pork, beef ragu, mushrooms, and cheese) and Farfalle (a bow-tie pasta with chicken, peppers, sausage, spinach, tomato and cheese).

The Fettuccini Alfredo wasn’t the best I’ve ever had, but it was satisfactory. The white sauce was creamy but not overpowering, and the sprinkled toasted bread crumbs gave the pasta dish a crunch.

Ironically, he non-Italian starters were better than the entrees.

The baked creamy artichoke crab dip appetizer was good. Breaking through the warm crust revealed a steamy and appetizing artichoke dip with a seafood twist. The dip had a subtle but spicy tang, but it would have been better if it were a little less fishy.

The Southwest Caesar Salad ($5.95 or $7.95, depending on size) was the best dish.

Matteo’s puts some flair into this classic salad by adding crunchy chili tortilla crisps and a creamy chipotle lime dressing, perfect for a pre-entree zing.

Instead of the classic parmesan cheese topping, there were manchego cheese shavings, a salty, zesty cheese made with sheep’s milk. For an extra charge, you can add grilled chicken ($2), shrimp ($4) or ahi tuna ($6).

Aside from the food, the interior felt like a cheaper version of Roxy Restaurant.

The atmosphere is modern rustic, and the walls are covered with acrylic paintings of cows, sheep, and wheat fields.

Glass dividers between the rows of tables look like shower doors, and the light tan chairs, which look like they’ve been borrowed from a high-school cafeteria, clash with the dark mahogany wood tables.

The menu is three crinkled pieces of white printer paper stapled together that restaurant-goers read while listening to Sarah McLachlan cover bands.

Overall Matteo’s deserves a B-. If you don’t live close by, there’s no reason to drive across town for a Caesar salad.

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